Tea games extreme climbing
While participation in traditional team sports declines, climbing and surfing and kayaking have all seen record growth. Still, motive has been little studied, says Emma Barrett, a researcher at Lancaster Univeristy and the author of Extreme: Why some people thrive at the limits. So what drives us to keep doing these sports, despite the inherent risks?
Brymers work—and similar research done by John Kerr out of the University of British Columbia and Susan Mackenzie from the University of Idaho—suggests one of the most powerful motivators is something any athlete knows: these sports are hard and much of the satisfaction comes from the grind, and the satisfaction that comes from nailing that backside cutback on the wave after a hundred failed tries.
Wingsuit fliers and pro climbers spend a huge amount of time trying to minimize risks. Of course, the risk is real. The parade of obituaries for pro climbers and top-level BASE jumpers shows this with frightening frequency. And, Barrett says, some people are likely motivated by that dopamine rush or the thrill of risk. For Alex Honnold, perhaps the most impressive, unflappable solo climber to ever live, it depends on how you define risk.
So, why does Honnold do it? Another solo attempt, in , failed, as did a team effort in Another shot seemed in order. The timing made sense, too. He had suggested sneaking a re-do on the South Face before the Yugoslavs returned. Spring had come and gone. Fritz sensed, as we did, that the Yugoslavs would complete the South Face route. So much had depended on a Makalu victory in Next up, he had meant to make a solo traverse of Antarctica, and then a ski descent of Denali, in winter, no less, and then a solo of Everest without bottled oxygen.
Makalu meant more than a buggered tick list. Fritz had believed we shared his belief in the transcendence of ascent. For him, growing up an orphan in the ruins his father in the army , trust in other people did not come naturally.
He had tried the team approach on Cho Oyu, and then on Makalu with us, and the results had been devastating. Makalu had triggered a crisis of faith. Arnold and I agreed that Fritz would come walking down the trail anytime now.
He was changing his oil, that was all, purging the old Makalu to prepare for the new one. Fritz was probably dead by then. Less than a year later, Arnold would be, too, struck by lightning. During my visit, it rained on Sunday, our climbing day. Arnold and I went to the bar, and he laid a copy of Alpinismus on the table. It was dated Paragraph by paragraph, we revisited what amounted to the trial and condemnation of our friend.
In April , a small German expedition arrived at Cho Oyu 26, feet. At 23, Fritz was the youngest member, and also, overwhelmingly, the strongest. In the space of 11 days he, two companions, and a Sherpa established a high camp Camp IV at 23, feet and immediately prepared for a summit bid. Fritz carried on to the top, becoming the first person to climb an 8,meter peak without supplemental oxygen. Details vary about what happened next, but the outcome was the same. Back at Camp IV, Fritz strapped on a pair of skis and made the highest ski descent in history, bagging two world records in a day.
His two partners died before they could be rescued. Four months later, in , Alpinismus essentially accused Fritz of manslaughter for abandoning his companions in order to claim two records.
Badrighot Prison, I sucked as a leader, and sucked worse as a judge of people, or at least of one man, a mystery climber who disappeared after the first week. After our failed climb, I agreed to pick up Mr. While we were climbing, it turned out, he had been muling black money and contraband for the Indian mafia. Customs was waiting for some idiot to claim his baggage, plastic barrels filled with 8, high-quality watch movements worth more than their weight in gold.
When the customs agents removed one of the barrel lids the watch parts erupted. Thinking they were chocolate coins wrapped in foil, I broke into laughter. Then they shackled me with iron chains and took me to prison. One afternoon a fellow prisoner—a Hindi entrepreneur from Patan—invited me to tea. What was left of the windowsills bore beautiful wooden carvings. Their paint had long ago peeled away and the gods and goddesses were melting away.
While Mr. At last Mr. Patan got around to his proposition. They were mine for the taking, but first I would need to take care of the rental fee. My curiosity grew. We walked to the front gate where Mr. I was speechless. Maybe he had drunk from it in front of the wrong people, and they had murdered him to get the chalice. Here it was, though, on the far side of a net of chains and bars, a glittering, slightly dented holy grail. There was even more in storage, Mr.
Patan assured me. Fritz had found me. Patan answered. My release came abruptly. The State Department stepped in on my behalf. I was given barely one minute to collect my possessions, and then ejected from the prison. Next morning I was to be deported from the kingdom and declared persona non grata.
It was p. Against all advice, I returned to the jail and summoned Mr. How much? Two thousand dollars, he told me, a bargain. Fifty dollars, I told him, take it or leave it. We settled on Fritz had indeed left his suitcase in Nepal.
Mildewed tents, salvaged rope, and rusty pitons lay piled in the corner of a hut. I slit the red cordura open with a knife. Inside was a blue ski sweater and an orange climbing helmet. No journal, no maps, no clues. I rooted among worthless clothing and torn paperbacks. Los Angeles, Janice invited me for lunch.
During the 12 years since Fritz went missing, she had become a beloved celebrity on The Price is Right. I expected a mansion, but found a modest ranch house. She welcomed me, and as I stepped from the bright sunshine I did a double take at the man behind her. I had thought Janice wanted to chat about Fritz, but that seemed impossible with her lover present. To the contrary, Fritz was lunch. Over iced tea and a sandwich, she made a proposal. It was time to tell the story of Fritz, the real story.
Would I consider working on a book with her? Fritz was still alive, she informed me. He was injured and lying on his side on a cold stone bench in a jail cell, probably in Afghanistan, or maybe Pakistan. A psychic had told her so. She spoke openly, with the long haul composure of a widow. Meanwhile Carlos was scrutinizing my reaction. Janice went on. Hers had been a long, painful passage through heartbreak, duplicitous strangers and unusual allies. Among others, Elvis Presley had given her good counsel, and an ex-KGB agent had revealed how things work in the subterranean.
It was quite byzantine, but reduced to this: Fritz was a spy. Tirich Mir had been an elaborate ruse. He had never gone to the mountain. She had searched and grieved and come up with a tale that gave her solace.
Plainly my role in this had little to do with writing. I put a few questions, gently and respectfully. Yes, she answered, she was aware that Bil Dunaway and another friend had gone searching for Fritz, and had found some of his non-climbing possessions in the last village.
The fact that they had not found Fritz proved her theory. As for the possessions, anyone could have planted them. Why, if he was so bent on going alone to fight in the Cold War, had Fritz asked a close friend in Aspen Michael Ohnmann to go with him to Tirich Mir, and when that failed had asked Janice, who had to work, and then flown to Germany to ask other climbers? Did she know about the Canadians finding a body and clothing right where Fritz would have been climbing?
The basic response: What body? Whatever they found could have belonged to another climber, or simply been a fiction in a cover story. Janice sat back. She blinked. Carlos spoke. He was quite diplomatic. Collaborations are difficult enough between willing partners. He did not have to state the obvious. I was neither willing nor a collaborator. Lunch was over. It was a cross between a romance novel, a who-done-it, and an espionage thriller. That last part seems to be true.
Fritz was not the man any of us knew. A decade before I met with Janice, a decision had needed to be made. Was it worth sending me to Pakistan or not? Was I still up to the task? It felt like a betrayal if I said no. It was coming back to me, though. I had already done this. Less than a year before, I had gone into the underworld.
I held the shears and closed my eyes and sank again into Kathmandu. Once a day they let me exercise in the narrow corridor lined with cells. Whatever they kept caged back there hooted and barked and shrieked so much at night that I mistook it for the political prisoners being beaten and electric-shocked upstairs.
What looked like dozens of butterflies clung to the outside of the far cell door. To that point, I felt a sort of repulsed curiosity. Then I looked inside and saw their animal. There he stood waiting for me, naked and covered in brown war paint. The walls were painted with primitive bas-reliefs. His teeth were caked. Dipped and tied to the iron bars and now dried stiff, the butterflies were strips of torn clothing.
They had barred his wooden shutters closed to prevent him from terrifying the street. His eyes were the only light in there, however bloodshot and starkly insane.
He lunged at the door. I pieced the man together with bits of info pulled from the guards. What remained of his Dutch passport was expired. He had eaten the rest. Hoping to halt his bowels, they only fed him every few days. He had been here for two months. One day I washed him. The guards unlocked his door. I was still strong from the mountain, or at least not yet wasted by jail, and I knew tricks for subduing a person, which is not the same as a raving lunatic.
It was like wrestling a large eel with teeth. I carried him, thrashing and howling down the stairs, to a water spigot in the center of a shaft that opened to the sky. With the bucket the guards used to clean their asses after a dump, I poured water on him and wiped the dung from him. It went on for an hour. His hair—the horns—took longest. I washed him, I washed me, I washed him.
Resurrection, that was my hope, or conceit. Saving this poor fallen soul might not save my own, but at least I could congratulate myself for my humanity. His madness would lift. At the same time, it was raining.
Drops pattered on my head and shoulders and dimpled the water on the floor. I lifted my head to it. Let the monsoon pour down. But then I saw the guards and soldiers lining the walls at each level, and they were spitting on us. A friend contacted the proper embassy.
The madman was evacuated back to Europe. He had bitten me, and I was bruised for days, and physically sick for weeks. That was OK. I had saved a life. A real life. Fritz had chosen his mountain.
It was time for me to let him have it. The mountains are our underworld. If you doubt that, try the top of a Tibetan pass sometime. Lung ta— wind horses printed on slips of paper or cotton flags—gallop their prayers into eternity. Animal skulls, carved and painted, whistle into the void.
Up there, every one of us is an exile only partway to somewhere, but with this difference between us: the living may not stay; the dead may not pass. Flicking Soccer is what you were looking for! Choose your team, score more goals Play through the 10 holes of this minimal flat golf.
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